Fleeting Wor(l)ds

It is only fair that after sketching a little piece of French Alps, I went for some reunions with my own natal mountains, French Pyrénées, and this, in such good company since this short journey was the occasion for some time spent with my dad.
We had chosen, as starting point for our improvised divagations, Fontagente Ponds Loop Trail, then we cheerfully let us be flown by fate for two days and one night.

Time for a hike

In order to start the best, I had decided to forget my hiking shoes! Yep, it is possible to drive for a hike with your lighter shoes because “how on earth is it so goddamn hot”, to repeat yourself ten times not to forget, to even haven taken the matching socks and to only realize 15 mins before arrival you have forgotten your main gear! Lucky me, the revelation occurred before my meeting point with my dad and not on the hike parking lot, I therefore took a swing to our cheapest sporting store and got a cheap pair of shoes while my perfectly good Alaskan ones were resting at home.

That + curving roads + punk anarchists hitchhiker (I was working out my karma), we got there when the sun was at its highest and windy clouds were a promise of the announced rain. Some blue sky remained though and we cheerfully started our hike along Aston River.

This is when familiar bells started to ring in my expecting heart, only it was not milk cows anymore… Zorro’s horse was watching the river and his flock with a keen and dark eye. American Kiger Mustangs will have to behave facing this dark cattle among who a few foals were learning how to walk.

Once the stream was crossed, the hill got steeper, altitude oxygen went missing and the moderate hike started to lie. Blue sky was loosing battles, torn by wind, and thousand shades of ponds greeted us under grey rain up to come. No swim today, some sandwiches mesmerized by the blues and pinks of the water, and here we went, gazed by amazing landscapes, summerish and various, only offered to our feet.

One last question was still keeping me busy: what is the difference between a lake and a pond? Apparently, it is not a matter of size (some lakes are actually smaller than some ponds). A pond is a closed body of water while the lake is connected to a stream. Then, if they both have stagnant water, the lake experiments some internal movements.

Fontagente Pond Loop Trail’s description

Time: 3h30 – Distance: 7,80 km/ 4,8 miles – Slop: 460 m – Marker: Yellow
(D) From the Pla de las Peyres parking lot, follow the sign to the “Refuge du Ruhle”(South). Keep going on this path and do not leave it anymore.
(1) At the first intersection, follow the sign “Etangs de Fontargente” on your right, and forget the direction of the “Refuge du Ruhle”. Follow the stream on your right to a metal walkway (2). Cross it, then continue in front (slightly to the right) leaving the left trail. Continue through the heather, on this unique path that then makes a 90° left angle (3) and attack the climb.
The “Refuge du Ruhle” is now visible up on your left. Continue on this path until you arrive at the largest of the 3 ponds (4).
For the return, keep going on the same path (obliquely to the right), you will pass through the second and then the third pond (5). Go around on the right and start the descent. Several rocky crossings without special risks, but remain vigilant. Continue on this unique path, which takes you back on flat ground, to a footbridge.
(6) Turn on your right and follow the stream until you reach the parking lot. Cross a last footbridge and you are arrived.

Good to know:
The hike is said to be “moderate” and there is a great deal of chance that you will think, as some point, you’ve been bloody fooled… Let’s say it is “moderate + +”. To be totally honest, the biggest part of the hike has a reasonable slope but a “short” stretch is particularly tough, therefore when you start to loose your breath and temper, remember the hard work only lasts 30-45 mins and the scenery is really worthy of all that effort.

Time for a drink

Since we hadn’t booked anything, we were quite free to go anywhere for our night, once the sun was done crying and the sky was inviting us for a cold beer. We then went for Ax les Termes where I had seen for the first time, when I was eight, a woman wearing a meat dress and wondering with a small camping stove in order to feed the audience for the Street art Festival, Lady Gaga has invented nothing!

We thus landed at the Comptoir des Négociants and we didn’t move until 11 pm!
We thought about eating elsewhere but, by such a funny randomness, we called and booked for the exact place we had been drinking for two hours… Yes, it takes to be a genius to realize « Le Comptoir » (Name on the front) is only short for « Le Comptoir des Négociants » (Nom on the internet)! [I spare you the details where I am asking google map to give me the itinerary to the restaurant we were supposed to have dinner…!]
We thought about attending a Far West show near the Casino but talks about life and red wine made us linger.

At some point, we had to figure out where to sleep which happened to be surprisingly easy considering it was both last minute and high season….
Eventually, at midnight, after one last detour for one last drink at La cave and a wonderful (but probably dreamt) single star shooting on the edge of the mountain, Le Petit Montagnard played its role and hosted us for the night.

Good to know:
* If you arrive last minute with no place to stay, counting on your luck, there are great chances you will find a room at Le Petit Montagnard. The place is comfortable, clean, efficient and cheap.
* If you are hungry, thirsty or would like to start the day slowly, the all team of Le Comptoir will take care of you, advice you and treat you with smile and helpfulness. Plus, there are concerts during weekends.
* As aforementioned, Ax les Termes is, according to me, well-known for its Street art Festival since I met the lady meated dress and the no bottom carriage. I was too young to know what it was about, but I think it was the Festival des Grands Chemins, meaning you should try to go beginning of August.

Time for a swim

I won’t lie to you, it was a hell of a wake-up, but the body seems to have its own ressources since we dared to try another walk.

Of course, we first enjoyed an easy peasy breakfast at Le Comptoir – never change a winning team! – as summer market had taken over the square. It immediately felt like holidays… Summer stands blending fruits and cheap clothes definitely taste and smell like my childhood holidays. I instantly feel at home, softened by both my memory’s and presents colors.

We bought our picnic food and we were ready for that very different walk though, sometimes autumnal, trees and along the Oriège River towards Campauleil Lake, hopping to taste the water this time.

The lake didn’t really fit our wishes, the stream’s tumultuous swell granted our dreams on a tiny beach though. And despite the freezing water, we (almost) jump without a glance! It brought us to really get our heads clearer and ran our blood better!

Back to the end, a last stop at Le Comptoir had to be done – you don’t cheat on your HQ – for a coffee and some sparkling water, in order to pierce Pyrénées and go back to our flat country.

Campauleil Lake Loop Trail’s Description

Time : 3 hours – Distance : 8 km/5 miles – Slope : 280 m
(D) You are facing the cable car station, take on the left and turn on the right up hill right away. Then, turn left following the sign “Rocher de la Vierge”. Let the “Chemin Saint Roche” on your right and keep going straight.
(1) Before the bridge, take on your right “Chemin de L’Ouradou” leading you to the old RN20.
(2) Once facing the road, turn your right and use the cross walk up hill (around 40 meters) in order to reach “Chemin de Biscarabé” with two signs “Petches” (yellow marker) and “Orgeix” (yellow and red marker” that you will follow to Orgeix). Crossroads after 150 meters. Leave behind “Petches” direction (3), take the left and follow Orgeix sign/yellow and red marker to a stretch of road that you will walk for about 400m.
(4) At the tight turn, follow the large path direction “lac de Campauleil” and “Orgeix”.
(5) Cross Orgeix lovely bridge after a glimpse on Orlu Tooth. In front of you, slightly on the left, walk through the village following the red and white marker. (You will go through “rue Carré Jacques”, “rue Carré d’Astrou” and “rue Estagnou, above which there is the cemetery.
(6) At the cemetery, leave behind the red and white marker to “Porteille d’Orgeix” an,d follow the little road. After 100 meters, take the little road up hill on the right of the power plant. After 400 meters, you will enter the “Ferme du Crabé”. Close the gate behind you. Follow the trail to a green tank (DFCI de Carbouné sign).
(7) Go up on the right of the tank to reach a little gate. Close it well and follow the sign “Chemin de la Passade” going down to a crosspath (croisement de la Ramille), follow the yellow mark on your left (chemin du Plana) to the climbing wall.
(8) Go down the path, take the right to reach the bigger road. Keep going down on your left to reach the Cross and the “chemin d’Entresserre” leading right away to Ax les Termes.

Good to know:
* 2 (farmer) markets per week: Tuesday and Saturday morning, 7am to 1pm + Thursday (07/01 to 09/15).
* You might prefer the Blue Loop trail [2 hours – 4,5 km/2,8 miles – slope: 200 m] if you are lazier (you might ask the visitor center for more information).
* I aforementioned a place to “swim”, be careful though, there is quite a current! It is not deep but it moves quickly, stay close to the shore for more safety.

We couldn’t have dreamt a better place than this rainbow waters scenery and this cute little town for this escape to the Pyrénées. Fontagente Ponds loop Trail offers some beautiful surprises along its dormant swells and dancing waves.  Ax les Termes gets quite a rare charme and is here and now without getting lost in an old thermal past. The whole thing was a beautiful pearl for this out of time, surprising and easy, moving and exotic, getaway.

And I invite you to experiment your own journey putting your steps in ours. Or not after all… Leave it to chance, it worked for us!