Fleeting Wor(l)ds

The first time I heard about the “Prise d’Alzeau”, I immediately though about war, I thought about the Battle of Arcole (“prise” means “taken” which can be said in war context when the place is “taken” by the opponent after the battle)… It is actually way less epic, even if the obelisk raised to praise Pierre-Paul Riquet tends to claim the opposite. For, if Alzeau’s outlet is the furthest point of the whole Canal du Midi’s infrastructure (60 kms), it actually is the place where Mister Riquet took the Black Mountain’s waters (at his own risks !!!) to let them flow the little Rigole de la Montagne Noire for 24 kms in order to feed the famous Southern French Canal.

Both during Spring and Summer times, the walk from Saint Denis Reservoir to the “Prise d’Alzeau” has now become one of my favorite for a starter and/or a breathe of fresh air by an easy and beautiful ride with family or friends. I therefore share some strides with you here.

Alzeau’s outlet and a bit of history…

Alzeau is the name of a gentle little stream in the Black Mountain which rises from the Col de la Croix de Fer and runs to Montolieu, the “village of Books”, defining the border between two counties.
Fed by regular and abundant rains all year round, the river was the ideal watercourse to fill up the Canal du Midi running from Toulouse to Mediterranean Sea, and solve any impossibilities Pierre Paul Riquet was facing, despite his clever mind, to feed his Canal: Pyrénées‘s water was unreachable because of its terrain, major rivers’ would never be diverted because of the impassable seuil de Naurouze. Yet, Riquet was not out of problems: when his perfect knowledge of the place gave him the idea to divert Black Mountain’s waters, a few thought Alzeau River would be enough to well feed the canal. The Occitan entrepreneur then dug a “teste channel” with his own money, which was enough to prove him right after a few months and the King finally allowed him to dig the real “Rigole de la Montagne” meant for the Canal du Midi. Construction started January, 1667.

Alzeau’s outlet and a bucolic moment…

Today, Alzeau’s outlet, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the trailhead of a few bucolic walks, like the path along the “Rigole de la Montagne” to Les Cammazes and its Vauban Vault, or the trail through Ramondens Forest to Saint Denis Reservoir.

As for me, I always take it reversed from Saint Denis Reservoir… Once parked, I cross the dam by foot and follow the lead on my right along the lake. When I meet a cute little bridge after 15 mins, I decide to go up stream to the famous Prise d’Alzeau and ride Alzeau waters like Pierre-Paul Riquet did. Along the way, I am traveled from the romantic Broceliande forest to untamed American trees, I travel the world in a two hours promenade, I talk with dragonflies and am cradled by the stream whisper along my steps.

Once got to my point, I am facing a lovely green shuttered House, a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well. Indeed, the construction of a dam on the Alzeau River soon needed a gardian in order to work (and a home for him nearby). Built in the 18th century, the cottage was used as it until 1851 when its dilapidated state demanded renovations. Instead, it was totally rebuilt in 1854. That station being quite remote, the whole thing was automated in the early 1990’s and made it optional to have somebody working there. The house perfectly show nowadays, in this particularly remote place, how intense life used to be around the Canal and its several infrastructures!

The esplanade in the front of the cottage is a nice place for a picnic, even if I always prefer – for now – the river banks and a witch caban (a bit upstream) for only roof… Once fulfilled, I then get two options : go back the same way (which I always do because google maps screws me but I still hope to change my habits) or follow the Rigole de la Montagne Noire‘s path (which I advice you to do) whose intersection will eventually bring you back on tracks along Alzeau River. I then finish my walk along the reservoir’s other shore, crossing the missed little bridge.

Once back to Saint Denis Reservoir (completely dry right now), I always make a last stop at the couple of little waterfalls behind the dam, promises of new mesmerizing dreams surrounded by lovely green scenery.
For the record, Saint Denis dam offers a few trailheads (toward Fontiers-Cabardès, Villaret and Brousses) if you stil have a bit of energy….

Alzeau’s outlet and the beginning of new adventures…

If you wish to know better about the Canal du Midi’s History and its works of art, I strongly recommend to contact André Authier who lead, in collaboration with Le Salon de Vauban at Les Cammazes, cultural and gastronomic visits through the Black Mountain. I will soon tell you more, once I will have experienced it myself.

In the meanwhile, just know what André offers: 40 kms on small and logging roads, by car or by bike, from Saint Denis Village to Les Cammazes in order to follow the “Rigole de la Montagne” and discover its various sites (Old Lampy, New Lampy, Le Conquet, La Gravette, Le Sor, etc…) with a yummy stop at Vauban Vault and a commented slideshow about the Canal du Midi’s water supply system, during lunch.

How to go to the “Prise d’Alzeau” by car ?

From Carcassonne:
Follow Montolieu’s signs by the scenic road. When you are at Montolieu, you may reach D8 road just before the bridge toward Saissac, but if, like me, you miss the intersection, don’t worry! You may as well keep going on D629 road towards Revel and turn the next right: D103 road towards Saint Denis. Once in the small village, you may follow the signs “Bassin Saint Denis” if you want to do everything like me or the “Prise d’Alzeau”‘s if you want to start by the Alzeau dam.

From Revel:
Follow Carcassonne’s signs by the scenic road. You may pass Saint Ferreol Lake and a few kilometers after Saissac, turn left on D103 road towards Saint Denis. Once in the small village, you may follow the signs.