Fleeting Wor(l)ds

The Land of the Cathars is full of mesmerizing legends and history for my child’s eyes. I vaguely remember to have visited some castles with my dad (I even got a Knight diploma!) and my mum has always nourished an unbelievable passion for Cathars, which probably goes through family then.
Yet, like a lot of my homeland’s realities, I have taken some distance for the past few years, looking for foreign mysteries on Celtic lands, forgetting my own had some unfathomable secrecy of the Beyond. This half obligated – half chosen immobility has therefore some good and opens everyone to some hidden opportunities.
As for me, it reconciles me with my childhood castle dreams that I might now gaze at with my historian apprentice’s eyes and my imagined witch’s soul.
As for me, it brings me towards this fantasized quest and leads me to the most legendary places of all, to the most mysterious lands of all, to the most secret constructions of all, through my new category: The esoteric and telluric Aude.

My esoteric and telluric quest in Aude probably ended there, after a one year pilgrimage… In this salted lagoon’ mesmerizing green waters. In the FOUNTAIN OF LOVE‘s soft pool.

In fact, one never really knows when and where a pilgrimage comes to an end ; and without looking for esoteric answers, I might wander through Allet Les Bains and/or other La Sals banks one day, throwing my words on my laptop… but for now, I touched with hands and feet places which have touched my heart. Then for now, future only will tell.

La Sals, a little salted river born in Corbières, lingers along the Pech de Bugarach to cuddle in natural pools, magnificent bathtubs linked to each others by beautiful cascades above Sougraine. Thus, you can find in between the reversed mount and the Quiet Rennes, the Fountain of Love whose enchanting scenery invites to dream, whose legend inspires to eternity. Trees whisper indeed, from their intertwined names in their bark, when two lovers bath in its waters, their love will be endless. 

To add to rock’s secrets, a few mil’s ruins have witnessed times when jet was cut (rock from burned coniferous debris).

When I reached the Fountain of Love after hiking Bugarach, I was not alone anymore; green was not less mesmerizing, the stream’s song was not less touching my heart. Unreal dry swimmers, my fleeting company, were only passing by, message from the Universes to remind me of my loving vow.

Alone again, I gazed at the salted river’s velvety music throughout the Earth’s green hair.

I had promised to dissolve into salted drops in order to renew my skin but waters were properly freezing. Would I dare? The main bath was deep enough for a jump from higher rocks but I needed more courage. I hardly reached a little shore so I may slowly dive in. Fluffy seaweed were calling for my shy feet and I finally, coldly and clumsily, immersed, probably jeopardizing the whole soft ecosystem after me. For yes, the first bath was short. Invigorating, cheerful and exhilarating, but quick.

In and out, I sat along the stream, silently praising my wishes, feeling my body warming under the thin cold layer of water on my skin, my feet caressed by salted waterlily. The Fountain of Love was still calling for me. I couldn’t resist to that invitation. And with a good laugh, I got baptized twice before drying in the sun, enjoying the green path on waters.

I was eventually ready to go home, fully reborn under the cascade’s peculiar atmosphere, in the salty water’s softness, full of the lush nature of The Fountain of Love, place of my own love declaration in this life.

How to go?

The Fountain of Love is quite close to Rennes Les Bains on your way to Sougraine. After the first bridge at the crossroad to Sougraine, you will drive a second bridge. The “trailhead” is on your right, after the road has entered the forest. There is no sign. Only cars on the side give it away.

Willing to walk?

After a long search, I couldn’t find a proper hike around the Fountain of Love. Thus, I advice:
* either to follow my lead and climb Bugarach’s miracle before cleansing your wounds in Love’s magic waters (which means a bit of a drive in between)
* or, if less ambitious, to choose the easier path I walked during winter starting at Rennes Les Bains: the offbeat trail, which you can leave before crossing Las Sals a few meters before the arrival, in order to reach the Fountain of Love by foot following the stream for one kilometre on your right.