By a summer Sunday, as France was going through the traditional waltz between juilletistes (July vacationers) and aoutiens (August vacationers), I was facing my key word of the season: LET GO OF MY COMFORT ZONE. And you can tell I didn’t skimp on the concept for two days with my visionary and altruistic cousin! She had brought me, the day before, on a small catamaran to sail – how did we laugh that day! – ; she, then, involved me on Pic Saint Loup’s steps.
That Controlled label of Origin I usually enjoy in a glass of wine, top of my favorite French wines’ TOP3, therefore got some roots on Earth I was about to hike. My cousin’s favorite trail in her new home, she had chosen the long path walking around the famous peak! She had warned me, it was a tough one, you sometimes even had to climb; but pride and maybe a bit reckless, I was not afraid! After all, I had hiked Bugarach a few weeks before, I had climbed Mount Marathon in Alaska, I was not going to be silenced by a tiny tiny peak! Huge mistake!
We then left the trail head at Cazevielle, with only one liter of water for two, light and careless, for a four hour hike in full summer time. The action is set and I am sure you know where I am going, you already know what we will suffer.
The first part of the journey was idyllic. Shadowed, we meandered through Pic Saint’s hidden recesses, gazed by endless views towards the Cévennes and the peak in all its glory. After noon and an incredible scenery though, it all got tougher. I couldn’t see the end of our miserable climbing, unlike our bottles whose last drops were being drunk; there was not enough path for my patience, I just wished it was over and was loosing courage. An anxiety wave struck, I must confess; I was tired to desperately trying to let go of my comfort zone, I had lost any literal or metaphysical confidence. My fear lodged in the absence of knowledge: I couldn’t tell if we still had to hike/climb for minutes or hours and, like in real life, uncertainty was killing me. Although after confabulations and a deal about an allegedly 30 minutes remaining walk, I was brave again.
In reality, we still needed one hour to reach the top, but I had freed myself from my burden of limiting thoughts. Our “promenade” had find back its good mood; even if dehydration was causing us delusion and foolish laughs ( and what a laugh!)!
Okay, I am overstating the point, we were not about to die, but only the dream of a rosé fountain on the top of the peak made me go through with it. And when utopia revealed to be vain, I started making my own mental drinking list for the end of the trail: water to quench my thirst, Orangina for sugar and beer as reward! As for handling the situation, I must thank the patience of my cousin, who had climbed Kilimanjaro and tuned our ascension with her « polé, polé »*. Who was reformed by her medical school and rationed our water with precious advises: take a mouth wash in order to control the feeling of satiety. Who brought us to a successful conclusion, exhausted but cheerful and proud. Without her, I would still be sweating my ass off on my way up to the peak’s highest cross.
Full of content of our daily feat, our uncomfort zone being more than experienced, we were not able to celebrate our many miles much tough, we had to rush down hill so I didn’t miss my train. And the descent, as challenging as the f****ing hell climbing, was again the occasion of a lot of jokes and laughs.
I can tell my cousin would be horrified by my words, she was so concerned about making our weekend cheerful and perfect, I therefore put her at ease right away: despite thirst and rocks, our Pic Saint Loup expedition remains one of my best hiking memories during which I endlessly laugh !… Although I am not ashamed to claim: Pic Saint is way better to drink than to hike!
Pic Saint Loup’s Tale
In the 11th century, on the roc d’Esparon, in a strong fortress, lived a widow and her three sons, Loup,Guiral et Alban. When time came for them to love, they all fell for the same lady, Irène, from Vivieures Castle. She didn’t know who to choose and offered them to prouve their courage by joining the Crusades so she was able to make a choice. When the three knights came home after a long time away, they ran into beautiful Irène’s funeral, the young lady, consumed by their absence had just died indeed.
Desperate, the three brothers decided to devote their life and love to God only. Each settled on a summit of the area in order to live like hermits. Each year, on Irène’s birthday, they would light a bonfire, only remaining link between them.
When they died and to keep their memory alive, people named their refuge after them. Thus, you may find Saint Guiral Mount in Cévennes, Saint Alban Butte nearby Nant and the Pic Saint Loup above Montpellier’s garigues.
Time to rock?
You have two options to hike Pic Saint Loup: the short version and the long version (whose way back is actually the short version) and I must confess, after my thirsty and disoriented adventures, the two versions appeared both as difficult because of the ground quality. Indeed, although you may go up and down in 2.30 hours by choosing the first option, the trail is quite rocky which makes the whole hike quite uncomfortable. Of course, the second version asks best physical conditions since the higher part of the hike is partly small “climbing”, but the first part of the way up is quite smoother and more shadowed.
The short version’s advantage is the easy path: well marked, everyone knows the way; in the second case though, we spend our time on the map so we didn’t get lost in the rocks, which was the main hike’s pain in the foot.
Nevertheless, despite our thirsty and disoriented adventures, I still highly recommend the long version for its various scenery, for the endless look on the peak and for the unique journey it will be in any circumstance.
-> The short version here: 5.46km – +321m – 2.30 hours
-> The long version: 9.22km – +569m – 4h15
I could find no translated explanations, so you may find directions below and none translated directions + map over there
Starting point: Cazevielle big parking lot
From the parking lot, reach the Chemin de Tourrière, direction North – North-West. Continue on the stony path leaving the access to Tourrière to the left.
There comes a first choice. There is a path leading to the ruined towers, 2 lines of blue paint on the ground, on the right. We may see a little behind a yellow beacon and finally a little higher on the mass of rocky, 2 large letters A red. Take this road while staying on the left.
The descent to point (1) is very pleasant and offers beautiful views. Be careful however after the pass, the first 3/400m are stony and slippery in case of rain. Just before the point (1) a crow’s foot crossroad does not appear on the map.Take the path on the left, indicated by a blue arrow.
(1) Take the trail to the right. Follow it to a crow’s foot. Stay on the right.
(2) On the right of the trail, you can notice a stone block with indications in Blue and Yellow that are not very precise. Continue to the right.
(3) At the end of the grassy area, turn right and follow this path to a crossroads. Turn right. Be careful because on these paths many paths intersect.
(4) Follow the path, leave a left trail and join the Pas de la Pousterle.
(5) At the crossroads, turn right onto GR®60.
(6) From this point, 2 options:
Option 1: Reach the summit of Pic Saint-Loup by the ridges, but be careful, difficulties are numerous. Minimum signposting (Blue paints sometimes on stones), various obstacles requiring to climb, a lot cliffs of nearly 60/70m on your right. This passage requires to be in good physical shape. Between points (6) and (7) the path is quite hazardous. [That’s the one we experienced !!!]
Option 2: stay on the GR®60 until the next crossroads (8) and reach the summit via a safe but very rocky return path…
(7) Join GR®60.
(8) Continue to the right on the GR®60 down from Pic Saint-Loup and return to the parking lot.
Fleeting Wor(l)ds 